#Centreville Tire And Auto

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Knowing Your Tire's Maximum Load Can Save Your Life!

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Most of us never stop to think about the maximum load our tires can support. After all, passenger cars are usually used to transport well...passengers, and any human beings who would cause the vehicle to exceed its maximum load are unlikely to fit through the car doors in the first place.

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But (and just like in the example above it's a big butt) with the large number of light trucks, SUVs, and vans being used as primary transportation today, a tire's maximum load becomes a much bigger factor.

There will always be at least one, and possibly two, indicators of a tire's maximum load printed right on the side wall. The first is the Load Index. This is a numerical code ranging from 74 to 111. This number doesn't tell you much, and sometimes it will be completely absent. Luckily it doesn't matter. The Load Index is more for tire professionals than for the average person who wants to know if carting around a piano is going to cause a blowout.

The information you want to look for is the Maximum Load. This will usually be right beside the Load Index and will read, for example, MAX. LOAD 875 kg (1929 lb.).

This seems simple enough, right? Too bad this number is actually misleading. If you continue to read along the sidewall, you will find an entry that says something like AT 35 PSI MAX. PRESS.

Problems can arise because this number is very often different than the vehicle manufacturer's recommended maximum tire pressure. This information can usually be found on the door post or inside the glove box. If in doubt, your vehicle's manual will have it for sure.

According to tire manufacturers, you should always follow the recommendations of the vehicle's manufacturer, regardless of whether the tire itself can handle a few more pounds of pressure.

The maximum load carrying capacity of the most tires is rated as either Standard Load or Extra Load. Standard Load tires are limited by the load that can be carried with a maximum inflation pressure of 35 psi. The same goes for Extra Load tires; however, the maximum inflation pressure is 41 psi.

If you're not sure what type of tire you have, check the sidewall. If you see either 'XL', 'Reinforced' or, simplest of all 'Extra Load' then you have Extra Load tires. Standard Load tires are well...standard. Therefore they do not have any special identification.

Some Standard Load tires are branded with a maximum inflation of 44 psi. This is an indication that the tire is designed to meet special performance requirements. It in no way increases the tire's maximum load.

No matter what kind of tires you have, a little foresight and common sense can save you from having to buy new tires too soon, or worse, a catastrophic accident. Loading a quarter-ton pick-up truck with half a ton of concrete is simply asking for trouble. Even if the tires can take it, sometimes the vehicle can't.

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Drag Racing - The Perfect Launch

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Drag racing, a contest between two cars beginning from a complete stop over a distance of a 1/4 mile (1320 feet) depends heavily on first 60 feet of the race, or the launch. The technique used for launching varies greatly depending on the how the car is equipped. The type of transmission, which wheels are being driven, tires, power, suspension and track preparation all play key roles in how to go about getting the best launch possible from the car.

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Improvements on the time it takes for the car to travel the first 60 feet down the track have significant implications on the final ET (estimated time). As a general rule, improvements in the 60 foot time, are magnified by 2x on your final ET. For example, a Dodge Viper GTS that runs a 12.2 @ 120 MPH in the 1/4 mile with a 60 foot time of 2.0 can make significant improvements to it's 1/4 mile times by obtaining a better launch. If the Dodge Viper GTS is able cut .2 (two tenths) of a second off it it's 60 foot time, by covering the first 60 feet in 1.8 seconds, it's final ET for the 1/4 mile would be around 11.8 @ 119 - 121MPH. More examples can be found by searching through the thousands of 60 foot records in the http://www.dragtimes.com drag racing database.

The best possible launch is obtained by obtaining the optimal balance of applying the most amount of power to the ground with the least amount of wheel spin. If too much power is applied during the launch and the tires spin, the resulting 60 foot time will be poor. The same goes for not applying enough power, thereby causing the car's engine to bog, and having the car limp off the line slowly.

When launching a car with an automatic transmission, a technique called power braking is used. After properly staging the car at the drag strip's staging lane, tightly hold down the brake with one foot, while slowly applying the accelerator peddle with the other foot. The car's engine RPM (revolutions per minute) should slowly increase to a point where the car will either start to move or start spinning the tires. Hold down both the brake and accelerator peddles just below the point where the car is starting to move or spinning the tires. When the christmas tree lights reach the last amber light before the green, lift off of the brake and slowly push the gas peddle all the way down. The correct RPM to launch at will be different every car depending on all of the variables mentioned earlier. Start conservative with the first launch and keep increasing the RPM at which the car is launched at during the subsequent runs. If the car starts spinning the tires after the launch, lower the launch RPM and try again.

When launching a car with a manual transmission come to a complete stop after the car is properly staged. Press the clutch in all the way with one foot while pressing the accelerator peddle down with the other foot, raising the engine RPM to a constant moderate level for the first launch. Lift up on the clutch peddle to the point where the car is just about to start moving and hold both peddles still. When the christmas tree lights reach the last amber before the green, slowly release the clutch while quickly applying the accelerator peddle enough to launch the car quickly, but not too much to induce a large amount of wheel spin. Start conservative with the first launch and keep increasing the RPM at which the car is launched at during the subsequent runs. If the car starts spinning the tires too much after the launch, lower the launch RPM and try again.

To obtain better launches and bring down 60 foot times even more, the use of drag radial or full slick tires can be used on more powerful cars that have trouble launching at any RPM on regular street tires. Drag radials and full slicks usually require a burnout to heat up the tires and clean them from debris for optimum performance. A burnout is a rapid spinning of the car's tires while the car stays relatively still.

All wheel drive cars (AWD) are typically the easiest to launch because the engine's power is distributed to 4 wheels instead of two. Rear wheel drive (RWD) cars typically launch better than front wheel drive (FWD) due to the transfer of weight to the rear tires during the launch, causing an increase in traction. If the car has aftermarket adjustable suspension, adjustments can be made specific for drag racing to increase the weight transfer to the driving wheels.

The track's launch pad preparation also plays an important role in how well and how hard cars can launch. The launch area is usually prepped with traction compounds to add to the stickiness of the track. A well prepped track will definitely help drop 60 foot times and result in lower 1/4 mile times.

During the breaks and cool down periods between drag racing runs, make detailed notes about how you launched on the back of each timeslip. These notes can help you diagnose launching issues, fine-tune subsequent launches and show improvements in the search for The Perfect Launch.

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